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Udaipur. Mirkula temple detail of the very fine wood carving of scenes from the Mahabharata
Keylong. Christina and two young women at Tsring Dorze’s (Bhoti master’s) house.
Bridge over the Chandrabhaga on the way to Triloknath. Image may be reversed.
Tsring Dorze, Bhoti Master in his potato field. Near Keylong. He, like many Lahaulis, was a potato connoisseur, I took him some Golden Wonder potatoes seed form Scotland and they grew well; perhaps these are Golden Wonders.
Women and child near Jispa.
Girls on a bus. The coat/dress is called ‘cholu’ in Miyar. In Lahaul it is called ‘katter’
Boy in traditional tweed coat
House near Keylong. Note the verandah.
Village near Jispa. The ibex horns are an offering to Bonpo deity.
Looking back down into the Bhaga Valley, on the way to the Baralacha Pass.
Looking up towards the Baralacha La (Pass). Christina & Tsring Dorze (Bhoti master).
Staircase to the roof level in a Lahauli house. A ‘jharu’, a sack of potatoes, and a goat-hair woven mat under the roof. Traditionally built houses in the background.
Tsring Dorze’s wife. Making buckwheat pancakes, in their house near Keylong.
Jispa, portrait of a boy in a hat.
Miyar: Workers on the road through the gorge.
Above Keylong. The bier of the chomo.
Above Keylong. Women mourners at the funeral of a ‘chomo’
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Above Keylong. Above Keylong. Women mourners at the funeral of a ‘chomo’.
Above Keylong. Funeral procession with ‘chomo’s bier passing through the village
Above Keylong. Gompa (monastery) where the funeral of ‘chomo’ (nun, or female lama) was held. ‘Drop toilet in the corner of the veranda. I was taken to the funeral by Tsring Dorze, ‘Bhoti Master’.
Houses near Keylong, old style with built in verandas. Plentiful wood pile
Mountains above Gondla, similar to 3.13.7A, here Dorze is sitting in the road in the foreground
Gondla village houses in the foreground, snow capped mountains above, and the traces of horizontal man-made paths
Gondla tower. Remarkable building (still standing in poor repair 2023) the seat of the Thakur of Gondla
Chandrabhaga Valley. Dorze crossing avalanche devastation. See3.13.7
Chandrabhaga Valley. Dorze in the midst of the avalanche destruction. There had been a heavy fall of late snow. Then avalanches destroyed villages and the wind ahead of it tore babies out of their father’s arms. And devastated villages, including stores of food and seed. After crossing the Sach Pass and coming down into Chandrabhaga valley I found the way along hazardous and frightening.
Gaddi, Kukti Pass (16,000 ft) from the Lahaul side. Autumn migration south. There are two flocks visible one fairly low down, approaching the pass, and the other on the ridge of the nearside shoulder of the hill. Cracks in the snow covering of the glacier are visible.
Gaddi, Kukti Pass (16,000 ft) from the Lahaul side. (As for 4.10.11a, but a better photo.) Autumn migration south. There are two flocks visible one fairly low down, approaching the pass, and the other on the ridge of the nearside shoulder of the hill. Cracks in the snow covering of the glacier are visible.
Gaddis, Overnight camp above Kuldeo temple and below the Kukti Pass (Lahaul side) during the autumn migration to the south. Two shepherds relaxing, wearing tweed caps, chola, and blankets. note cooking utensils and leather shoes.
Gaddis, Overnight camp above Kuldeo temple and below the Kukti Pass (Lahaul side) during the autumn migration to the south. Two shepherds smoking hookah, wearing tweed caps, ‘chola’, and ‘dora’. Checked blankets are drying on the wall of the dry-stone shelter. Note the dried cattle dung (for fuel) in the foreground.
Gaddi, Kukti Pass (16,000 ft) from the Lahaul side. Autumn migration south. There are two flocks visible the front of one is approaching the top of the pass, while the followers are crossing the steep, dangerous gullies where rocks fall from melted ice. Another flock is in the middle distance, in a shadow below a patch of old ice.
Kukti Pass (16,000 ft). Autumn migration south, from the Lahaul side. There are two flocks visible the front of one is approaching the top of the pass, while the followers are crossing the steep, dangerous gullies where rocks fall from melted ice. Another flock is in the middle distance, in a shadow below a patch of old ice.
Miyar: Dorze making ‘gyuma’, sausages of blood, ‘masala’ and ‘atta’ fed into sheep intestines
Miyar: Mangal Singh and Tara on a pony, trekking up the valley.
Miyar: CCN near Gompa camp.
Miyar: CCN smoking a ‘biri’ near Gompa camp. This image was used on the jacket of ‘Over the High Passes’
Miyar: Gompa camp. Pony man and Panchok with CCN’s camera and Kulu Lama.
Miyar: Gompa camp. Gaddi flocks grazing on the ‘blue grass’ (nitrogen rich).
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Miyar: Yaks grazing on the ‘blue grass’ (nitrogen rich).
Miyar: Houses at upper Tchaling. Note there is no glass in the windows. I think this shows the same house and staircase as in image 6.3.45-. It is the house that still exists opposite Kishen and family’s house, now a homestay.
Miyar: Rahul and Gaddis playing ‘chholo’.
Miyar: Rahul and Gaddis playing ‘chholo’.
Miyar: KG and Tchesring, pony men, playing ‘chholo’. Note the cricket stumps and herbs drying.
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New building, old mountains.
